Name: Devizes pie
Prep time: 30 min
Cook time: 210 min
Total time: 720 min
Ingredients: 1 kg shoulder of lamb; 1 tbsp plain flour; 600 g calf's tongue; 200 ml cider vinegar; 1 tbsp salt; 2 tbsp caster sugar; 1 tbsp coriander seeds; 1 tbsp black peppercorns; 1 blade of mace; 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds; 1 calf's brain; 8 rashers of streaky bacon, chopped; 200 g veal, chopped; 200 g sweetbreads; Salt and freshly ground black pepper; 1/2 tsp ground mace; 1 tsp ground allspice; 6 large eggs, hard-boiled; 500 g plain flour; 250 ml water; Small bunches of fresh parsley

Devizes pie

This pie is likely to have been made in the spring when nursing calves were killed for the rennet to make cheese. Although called a pie this relates to the method of cooking rather than the final dish. The meats are cooked under a huff paste in order to retain the juices, but once cooked it is left to cool, the paste removed, and the set meat and gravy turned out onto a plate. Similar methods of using up the brains, tongues and sweetbreads of the calves were common throughout the country, but this particular recipe originates in Devizes. The final ‘pie’ is carefully decorated and was presumably a centre piece of celebratory feasts in Spring. I tested the ‘pie’ on my local butcher and he and his assistants thought it was delicious!

Equipment

Weighing scales
Measuring jug
Roasting tin
2 saucepans
Frying pan
Small bowl
Shallow bowl
2 Large mixing bowls
Deep pie dish
Rolling pin
Kitchen foil

Preparation method

Day 1

Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas 6.
Place the shoulder of lamb in the roasting tin, cover with foil and place in the preheated oven and cook until the meat is fully cooked and tender (about 1 hour).
Once cooked remove from the tin and set aside.
Scatter the flour into the roasting tin and mix with the remaining juices over a medium heat.
Add water and stir until you have a rich, thickened gravy.
While the lamb is cooking, place the tongue in a saucepan with 2 litres of water, the cider vinegar, salt, sugar, coriander seeds, peppercorns, mace and mustard seeds
Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 1 ½ hours.
Remove from the cooking liquor and set aside to cool.
Place the brain in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to simmering point, reduce the heat and simmer very gently for an hour.
Remove from the liquid and allow to cool.
Place the bacon in the frying pan and sauté until browned and the fat is rendered.
Remove the bacon and place in the small bowl leaving the fat in the pan. Set aside.
Place the veal in the frying pan in which you have fried the bacon and sauté until browned and cooked through. Remove the veal and place in a shallow bowl. Set aside.
Clean the frying pan and heat a tablespoon of oil.
Add the sweetbreads and sauté gently for a few minutes.
Remove the sweetbreads and place in the shallow bowl along with the veal. Set aside.
Slice 200g of the calf’s tongue and the calf’s brain into thin strips.
Remove the meat from the cooked shoulder of lamb and cut into bite sized chunks.
Preheat the oven to 160C/320F/gas 2.5.
Place all the meats in a mixing bowl and season with the mace, allspice and salt and pepper. Stir to incorporate the seasoning throughout the meats.
Slice the hard-boiled eggs, reserving 6 slices for decoration.
Place a layer of the meats in the bottom of a deep pie dish, place egg slices over the top and then alternate layers of meats and eggs until you have used up all the ingredients.
Pour the gravy over the meats and eggs.
Make a huff paste by mixing the flour and water in a mixing bowl and combine with your hands until you have a smooth, stiff paste.
Roll out on a lightly floured work surface to about 5mm thick and place over the pie dish ensuring the edges are securely pressed into the rim of the dish. Don’t worry about crimping – this paste will be removed before the dish is served.
Place in the preheated oven and bake for an hour.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature.
Place in the fridge and allow to chill overnight.

Day 2

The next day remove the huff paste and place the pie dish in a bowl of boiling water for a few seconds.
Use a knife to ease the sides of the ‘pie’ away from the dish and turn out onto a serving dish.
Garnish with the reserved egg slices and the parsley.

More meat pie recipes to eat cold

Huntingdon fidget pie

Melton Mowbray pork pie

Shropshire fidget pie

Sussex churdles

Veal and ham pie

Yorkshire pork pie