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Devonshire squab pie

Squab pie with silver spoon. Decorated plate with serving of squab pie. Small dish of prunes and silver dish of clotted cream. Beige linen cloth. For Devonshire squab pie recipe.

Squabs are young, domesticated pigeons and, in the eighteenth century, were a delicacy of the gentry who raised them in their dovecots and then cooked them in pies.  In English Food, Jane Grigson (whose recipe this is based on) suggests that the less well off, wanting to imitate the cuisine of the better off, replaced the squabs with lamb.  As squabs are said to have a mildly fruity flavour the addition of prunes and locally grown apples gave the revised recipe a more authentic flavour.  Squab pies appear in most counties in the west country, but the Devonshire version differs in its inclusion of clotted cream.

Equipment

  • Weighing scales
  • Measuring jug
  • Frying pan
  • Cast iron casserole
  • Large mixing bowl
  • Deep pie dish
  • Pastry brush
  • Kitchen foil

Preparation method

  • Preheat the oven to 160C/32F/gas 2.5.
  • Heat the oil in the casserole, add the sliced onion and sauté until translucent and just beginning to take on colour.
  • Add the chopped apples, prunes, spices and seasoning and stir in. Remove from the heat.
  • Place the frying pan on the hob and heat up. Add the meat and brown on all sides. You will need to do this in batches, so you don’t overcrowd the frying pan. Transfer each batch to the casserole.
  • Add the flour and stir in.
  • Add the stock and bring to the boil. Immediately remove from the heat, cover and place in the preheated oven for 2 hours or until the meat is tender.
  • Remove from the oven. The gravy should have thickened but if it hasn’t, remove the meat, onions and fruit and rapidly boil the liquid until it has done so.
  • Place the filling with its gravy into the deep pie dish and allow to cool completely.
  • Raise the oven temperature to 180C/350F/gas 4.
  • To make the pastry sift the flour and salt into the large mixing bowl.
  • Add the suet and stir in thoroughly.
  • Add the water a little at a time and mix to form a soft, elastic dough that leaves the bowl cleanly.
  • Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for a few minutes.
  • Take a piece of the pastry and roll into a thin strip which will fit round the edges of the pie dish. Brush the edge of the pie dish with beaten egg and press the strip of pastry firmly around the edge of the pie dish.
  • Roll the rest of the dough out to a shape 1cm wider than the top of the pie dish. Dampen the edge of the pastry strip and place the pastry lid on top, pressing well to seal the edges by crimping. Trim the edges with a sharp knife.
  • Use any remaining pastry to make decorations for the top of the pie which you can stick down onto the pie top with beaten egg. Make a hole in the centre of the pie and brush with the beaten egg.
  • Place in the oven and bake for 30 minutes or until the pastry is golden brown. Check after 20 minutes and if the top is getting too brown place a piece of kitchen foil over the top.
  • Remove from the oven and serve immediately with dollops of clotted cream.

Tip: After you have peeled onions or shallots, cut them in half and remove the inner shoots as they can cause indigestion
Pastry making: For tips and step-by-step instructions, see my guide on making suet crust pastry.
For the filling: For tips on making stews see my guide on making soups and stews.
More Devonshire recipes
Chudleighs
Dartmouth pie
Exeter stew with savoury doughboys
Tudor Devonshire white pot
Victorian Devonshire white pot
 

Georgian

Serves:
6
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 2 hours 40 minutes
Total Time 3 hours 10 minutes

Ingredients

For the suet pastry

  • 350 g self-raising flour
  • 175 g vegetable suet
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 300 ml water
  • 1 medium egg, beaten

For the filling

  • 500 g lamb fillets off the bone, chopped into bite size pieces
  • 1 tbsp plain flour
  • 500 g dessert apples, peeled, cored and chopped
  • 2 medium onions, peeled and finely sliced
  • 16 unsealed prunes, roughly chopped
  • 1/2 nutmeg, grated
  • 1 tsp ground allspice
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 200 ml lamb stock

To serve

  • 200 g clotted cream

Nutrition

Nutrition Facts
Devonshire squab pie
Serving Size
 
390 g
Amount per Serving
Calories
896
Percent of Daily Value*
Fat
 
53
g
82
%
Saturated Fat
 
30
g
188
%
Cholesterol
 
161
mg
54
%
Sodium
 
202
mg
9
%
Potassium
 
625
mg
18
%
Carbohydrates
 
76
g
25
%
Fiber
 
4.5
g
19
%
Sugar
 
20
g
22
%
Protein
 
28
g
56
%
Calcium
 
55
mg
6
%
Iron
 
1.8
mg
10
%
* Percent Daily Values are based on a 2000 calorie diet.

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Keywords

Clotted cream, Lamb fillet, prunes

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