Wassail with lamb’s wool

In Anglo-Saxon times to wassail was to drink to good health (the word comes from the Old Norse 'ves heill' meaning 'be in good health'). This ritual took place at special times of the year, particularly during Yuletide, and as the cup of mulled cider or ale was raised 'wassail' was exclaimed and the respondents would then shout 'drinkhail' as the cup was passed round. By the late sixteenth century the term referred to general revelling. Hamlet, in Shakespeare’s play, refers to Claudius’s nightly carousing as keeping 'wassel'. In England, particularly the southwest, wassailing rituals would take place during the winter in orchards. In apple orchards the mulled cider (or wassail) was not only drunk but poured into the roots of the apple trees to awaken them and ensure a plentiful crop the following autumn. Pieces of toast were also soaked in cider and an elected Wassail Queen would be lifted into the boughs where she would place the cider sodden bread. After this the assembled wassailers would make a loud noise to scare any evil spirits away. The 'lamb’s wool' refers to the baked apple flesh that was added to the cider which supposedly resembles the fleece of a lamb.
Preparation method
Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas 6.
Grease the bottom of the roasting tin with butter.
Use a sharp knife to score round the centre of each apple. This is to prevent any explosions while cooking.
Place the apples in the roasting tin and place in the oven. Bake until the flesh is soft and mushy.
Meanwhile put the cider, spices and sugar in the large saucepan and bring to a simmer. Don't boil or the alcohol will evaporate.
Turn off the heat and leave to infuse for a couple of hours.
To serve, heat the wassail until hand hot, put in the large heatproof jug, add the apple brandy or Calvados and lumps of the baked apple flesh.
Pour into heat-proof glasses or mugs making sure everyone gets a bit of the baked apple (lamb’s wool).