The reputation of British cooking has not always been positive; it has often been described as bland, basic and dull. Indeed, my own associations with it were influenced by childhood memories of school dinners, which were dull and stodgy, consisting of grey slices of meat, lumpy mashed potatoes and over-boiled vegetables, followed by cloying sponge puddings served with thin dribbles of tasteless custard.
But there were moments when British food transcended its bland reputation. These were afternoon teas, served by either of my Yorkshire grandmothers, and featured delicious teacakes, scones, crumpets, rarebits and cakes served with homemade jam on tables laid with embroidered tablecloths.
In recent years, there has been a sea change in the perception of British cuisine, encouraged by cookery shows like the Hairy Bikers’ tours of Britain, The Victorian and Edwardian Farms, and The Great British Bake Off, as well as writers such as Clarissa Dickson Wright. In restaurants, chefs have increasingly looked to our British heritage in their creation of new and innovative dishes, and farmers' markets have reminded us of the wealth of very good ingredients produced in this country.
To develop this project, I have researched, cooked, baked, griddled and roasted the dishes that appear in the recipe books of Gervase Markham, Thomas Dawson, Hannah Glasse, Elizabeth Raffald, Maria Rundell, Hannah Woolley, Elizabeth Moxon and Eliza Acton – to name but a few. I discovered that most recipes involved the making of pies, puddings, and, well, pottages (things we might think of now as soups and stews). But I couldn’t resist including a few other fascinating and iconic dishes too, so you’ll also find here several recipes for breads, pastries, desserts and drinks.
All the recipes, designed for the home cook, are accompanied by their historical context, including information on the parts of Britain where they were commonly made. I have tried, tested and tasted all of them in my own kitchen, and adapted and updated many of them to suit modern tastes and pantries. On the information page, you’ll find advice on nutrition, suitable oils and fats, and conversion tables.
I’ve also included recipes related to seasonal festivals from New Year’s Eve to Christmas, with tips on hosting the appropriate celebrations.
So, if you have ancestors from the British Isles, this is a good place to discover what they cooked and ate, how they celebrated, and to learn to taste those dishes for yourself!
